Athens, with its seven hills and small alleys is just that. How does it feel? Quite brilliant.
Too see the care with which the old monuments are being restored, you can not help but feel frustrated at the way the ancient heritage back home is being neglected and destroyed. (I know big talk - what am I doing about it?)
Anyway. The city of THE acropolis. THE because every Greek city had one. But this is the one that matters. This is the one that the world recognises. This is the one that is probably in the best shape.
Went up the hill to the temples of the Parthenon, Erecthyion and to Nike on a day with spitting rain. Walking about the acropolis, you get a sense of the old grandeur of the place. You also have to marvel at how the place was built in the first place. Lucky for us we got a tour who let us know details about the place. Also told us of places to visit around the Acropolis. Like the new Acropolis museum, still not open but a preview display is up. Quite nice that.
The tickets to the acropolis also give you entry to the 6 other places around the city:
- The Ancient Aghora - Crumbling market place on the foothills of the Acropolis. Built and rebuilt over over the ages, still a lot of structures standing from way back when.
- The Roman Aghora - The forum as its called in Roman territories is the Marketplace put up by the Romans when they finally took the city. Most of the place is in ruins.
- Hadrian's library - Shell of the great library setup by Roman Emperor Hadrian.
- The Temple of Jupiter and Hadrian's gate - The incomplete Temple that was built in the centre of the city. The scale of the thing is enormous. Unsurprising that they ran out of men and material to complete the thing. Hadrians gate is another relic of the Roman time, built right next to the Temple of Jupiter.
- The Theatre of Dionysius - Huge theater built on the slopes of the Acropolis. Seeing it you remember that the ancient Greeks were the first to have public plays. Huge theater. Standing in the well you can almost see the hundreds of peole sitting in the seats rising around you.
- Keramaikos - Supposed to be an ancient cemetry. Didnt bother the spooks.
Also went to the Ancient Harbour of Piraeus. Not ancient anymore. Nothing old visible. All the tourist lines of the Meditaranean is all you get to see.
========================================================
In between, went for a day trip out to Delphi, The Navel of the Ancient world. The location where Casandra (cue Voices) and the other Oracles prophecised the glory and the destruction of the ancients.
The place was generally in ruins. Archaelogical restoration is in progress, and you can see some of the past glory of the monuments in place. Delphi was dedicated to Apollo and the columns of the temple are still visible. Every four years, Games were held at the Stadium built at the top of the stadium. Walking up to the top, realised how out of shape I was. The bloody Greeks must have been hulks to walk up that slope carrying their armour etc.
The highlight of the trip though was at the Delphi museum. There a almost complete lifesize statue of a Charioteer is installed. Its eerie jade eyes seems to follow you as you walk around the statue. Superb.
========================================================
This trip was done one week after the riots in the city in Dec 2008. While waling in Pireaus, a crowd was gathering for some more protests. Got out of there as fast as possible.
Also had dinner in the completely seedy Indian restaurant near Thission. Outside were completely dodgy looking immigrant janta. The police made a round of the place a few times while we were having dinner.
There was another Indian place just a few streets earlier to the seedy one. This one was great with decent Indian fare. Quite amazing how the atmosphere of the place just completely shifts in a few 100 metres.
Had good vegetarian food in the country. Probably helped to have along a person who new what to order.
Also, was amazing to see the Greek alphabet again. All those years of alpha, beta,gamma,delta etc in school paid off. Atleast you could guess what was written in case the english script was not available. Nice timepass as well. Especially when you could read some of the engravings on the monuments.
Photos @ picassa
========================================================
Thus ends the travels of the crazy Indian in Europe in winter 2008.
BTW , completely stunned at the number of Indian tourists in Greece for the time of the year.